• 专利附录
  • 专利说明
  • 权利要求
  • 类似技术
  • 同族专利
  • 引用文献
  • 法律状态
  • 优先权
    • 专利摘要:
    The invention relates to a watch, jewelery or jewelery component, characterized in that it comprises at least one part made of alloy comprising by weight: at least 750‰ of gold, between 125‰ and 135‰ of copper, between 63 ‰ and 77‰ of palladium, between 16‰ and 22‰ of silver, and between 27‰ and 33‰ of zinc. The invention also relates to a method of manufacturing a rel component.
    公开号:CH717525A2
    申请号:CH00608/21
    申请日:2021-05-28
    公开日:2021-12-15
    发明作者:Hugentobler Michael；Ricard Jean-François
    申请人:Rolex Sa；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    Introduction
    [0001] The invention relates to a gold alloy, particularly suitable for a watch component, and a timepiece, piece of jewelery or jewelery as such, comprising such an alloy, such as a watch.
    State of the art
    [0002] It is common to use a gold alloy in the manufacture of a watch component. Such an approach requires the use of an alloy comprising certain mechanical properties such as scratch resistance or the possibility of assembly with an accessory or with other components.
    [0003] On the other hand, the aesthetic aspect of the gold alloy, in particular its color, is also important. Some 18-carat gold alloys are standardized according to ISO 8654, which defines seven alloys called 0N to 6N. It has been observed that watch cases or bracelets made of these standardized gold alloys tend to undergo a gradual change in color over time, in particular under the action of tap water, water sea water, swimming pool water, salt water or soapy water. It has sometimes been sought to modify the composition of these standardized alloys, while retaining the same standardized color, in an attempt to improve the resistance to discoloration. Such modifications have sometimes led to a degradation of the mechanical performance, which is therefore not satisfactory.
    [0004] Thus, the object of the invention is to propose a new gold alloy for a watchmaking, jewelery or jewelery component, endowed with optimal mechanical properties and improved resistance to discoloration, and presenting an aesthetic appearance. attractive, especially by its color.
    [0005] More specifically, an object of the invention is to define a gold alloy for a watch, jewelery or jewelery component, which allows easy assembly with any complementary element or component, without deterioration of the properties of said alloy. 'gold.
    Another object of the invention is to define a gold alloy allowing the simple and reliable manufacture of a watch, jewelery or jewelery component.
    Brief description of the invention
    [0007] To this end, the invention is based on a watch, jewelery or jewelery component, characterized in that it comprises at least one part made of alloy comprising by weight:at least 750‰ of gold,between 125‰ and 135‰ of copper,between 63‰ and 77‰ of palladium,between 16‰ and 22‰ silver, andbetween 27‰ and 33‰ of zinc.
    [0008] The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing such a watch, jewelry or jewelry component, characterized in that it comprises a step of assembling said alloy part with at least a second distinct part by brazing and/or by welding and/or by crimping.
    The invention is precisely defined by the claims.
    Brief description of figures
    These objects, characteristics and advantages of the present invention will be explained in detail in the following description of a particular embodiment given on a non-limiting basis in relation to the attached figures, among which: FIG. 1 illustrates the limit of 0.2% elasticity of a gold alloy according to one embodiment of the invention according to three different states in comparison with three other different alloys. Figure 2 illustrates the tensile strength of the gold alloy according to the embodiment of the invention in three different states in comparison with three other different alloys. FIG. 3 represents the elongation at break of the gold alloy according to the embodiment of the invention according to three different states in comparison with three other different alloys.
    [0011] In the following description, an alloy will be designated by indicating the content in thousand weights after each main element. Some secondary elements will not necessarily be specified. In addition, the ranges of value which will be mentioned later may include or exclude their limits, in cases where this is not specified. The alloy families, containing the same elements in similar proportions, will simply be designated by their main elements.
    According to one embodiment of the invention, the alloy has the composition Au750Cu130Ag20Pd70Zn30. It belongs to the AuCuPdZnAg family.
    Figures 1 to 3 illustrate the advantageous mechanical properties of this gold alloy according to the embodiment of the invention.
    [0014] For this, samples of the gold alloy according to the embodiment are prepared, by drawing wires with a diameter of 3 mm. These samples are made according to three different states of the alloy, from the following three processes:A first state called "work hardened at 75%", in which the sample undergoes drawing from a wire previously annealed for 45 minutes at 650°C;A second state called “annealed”, in which the sample is prepared according to the 75% work-hardened state, then is annealed for 45 minutes at 650°C;A third state called "brazed", in which the sample is prepared according to the annealed state, then is subjected to an additional heat treatment by passing it through a band furnace at 870°C, at a speed of 20 cm/min to a duration of approximately 20 minutes. Such treatment results in a state similar to that of an alloy undergoing a brazing step.
    For each state, the following conventional mechanical properties of the alloy are measured, and represented respectively by Figures 1 to 3:The elastic limit at 0.2%, denoted Rp0.2;The tensile strength or breaking strain, denoted Rm;The elongation at break, denoted A, expressed as a percentage.
    [0016] These properties are compared with the same properties of three existing alloys, prepared in the same way according to the same three states: AuCuAg (standardized 5N type alloy), AuCuPt and AuCuPdln. These three alloys are considered to have overall good mechanical properties for the design of a watch component. The compositions of the alloys tested are as follows: AuCuAg 750 210 0 40 0 0 Ir AuCuPt 765 210 0 0 25 0 Ir AuCuPdIn 750 220 25 0 0 5 Ir
    As shown in Figures 1 and 2, it is found that the alloy according to the embodiment has a suitable yield strength and tensile strength relative to the three alloys compared. Figure 3 further illustrates that the alloy according to the embodiment does not include a lowering of its elongation at break in the brazed state, similarly to the AuCuAg alloy, unlike the AuCuPt and AuCuPdIn alloys.
    It emerges from these measurements that the gold alloy according to the embodiment has the advantage of allowing shaping and assembly of a component formed in this alloy, by techniques such as brazing.
    [0019] On the other hand, it should be noted that the alloy according to the embodiment does not exhibit any variation in density or loss of ductility following a heat treatment.
    [0020] The aforementioned properties of the alloy according to the embodiment come in particular from the fact that it is single-phase, particularly of the Au3Cu type. Phase transitions occurring at high temperature are not maintained upon cooling.
    Thus, it appears that the invention relates to any alloy comprising by weight:at least 750‰ of gold,between 121‰ and 139‰ of copper, or even between 125‰ and 135‰ of copper;between 56%o and 84‰ of palladium, even between 63‰ and 77‰ of palladium;between 16‰ and 24‰ of silver, even between 16‰ and 22‰ of silver, even between 16‰ and 20‰ of silver andbetween 24‰ and 36‰ of zinc, or even between 27‰ and 33‰ of zinc.
    The alloy according to the invention may consist of only the elements mentioned above, that is to say gold (Au), copper (Cu), palladium (Pd), silver (Ag), and zinc (Zn).
    [0023] As a variant, the alloy may comprise a few additional secondary elements. In all cases, the sum of the rates by weight of gold, copper, palladium, silver, and zinc of the alloy according to the invention is greater than or equal to 975‰, or even greater than or equal than 980‰, or even greater than or equal to 985‰, or greater than or equal to 990‰
    Such a possible secondary element is preferably chosen from Ca, Sr, Si, Ti, Zr, Mg, or In.
    The above compositions therefore only mention the majority elements of the alloy, to which one can optionally add at least one grain refiner element according to the knowledge of those skilled in the art, which gives other variants of realization of the invention. This grain refiner element may be present, for example, at most at the rate of 2‰, or even 1‰. It may be at least one element chosen by way of example from Ru, Ir, Re, Co, V and Mo. In particular, elements such as Ir, Re or Ru make it possible to guarantee the fineness of the grain and of avoid porosities, without significantly modifying the hardness, nor affecting the color, which is advantageous with respect to the desired object.
    As an additional remark, it is noted that such a gold alloy according to the embodiments of the invention advantageously does not include nickel and/or cobalt, which are allergenic elements. Advantageously again, it does not include any magnetic element, and therefore no iron.
    [0027] The invention applies to a watch or jewelery or jewelery component which is integrally formed in the alloy according to the embodiment. It also applies to such a component which would comprise only one part in this alloy. Advantageously, such a part represents at least 50% by weight, or even at least 75% by weight, of the component. Said part of the alloy component can be brazed and/or welded and/or crimped and/or assembled by deformation, thanks to the advantageous mechanical properties of the alloy, as explained previously.
    [0028] On the other hand, according to one embodiment, the part formed from an alloy according to the invention of the watch, jewelery or jewelery component is a solid part, representing all or a significant part of the thickness of said component. , and not just a surface coating. Thus, the components under consideration comprise a large quantity of alloy and advantageously comprise a part in solid alloy able to be deformed and to be polished, comprising in particular at least a part with a thickness greater than or equal to 0.1 mm.
    According to a variant embodiment, the part in the alloy according to the embodiment may represent a simple surface coating. Such a surface coating can be applied by a PVD process.
    As mentioned, the invention relates to any watch component. Such a horological component can be a clothing component, a case component, in particular a middle part, a bezel, a crown, or a back. It can be a bracelet component, in particular a fixing component, such as a link, a clasp blade, or a clasp cover. It can be a component of the movement, in particular an oscillating mass.
    [0031] The invention also relates to a timepiece, jewelry or jewelry piece, in particular a watch, characterized in that it comprises a watchmaking, jewelry or jewelry component, as described above.
    [0032] The invention also relates to a method for manufacturing a watch, jewelry or jewelry component, as described above.
    [0033] Such a method comprises a preliminary phase of manufacturing said alloy part according to the embodiment of the invention, which can be made by continuous casting.
    According to one embodiment, the method comprises a step of assembling said alloy part with at least a second distinct part by brazing and/or by welding and/or by crimping.
    The manufacturing method may include a step of brazing said alloy part with at least a second separate part, then a step of crimping said brazed part.
    [0036] The manufacturing process may comprise a heat treatment step at more than 800° C. of at least said alloy part with a reduction in the elongation at break of less than 30% compared to the annealed state and / or without modification of the density of said alloy.
    权利要求:
    Claims (14)
    [1]
    1. Watch, jewelery or jewelery component, characterized in that it comprises at least one alloy part comprising by weight:– at least 750‰ of gold,– between 125‰ and 135‰ of copper,– between 63%o and 77‰ of palladium,– between 16‰ and 22‰ of silver, and– between 27‰ and 33‰ of zinc.
    [2]
    2. Watch, jewelery or jewelery component, according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the sum of the rates by weight of gold, copper, palladium, silver, and zinc of the alloy of said part is greater than or equal to 985‰, or even greater than or equal to 990‰.
    [3]
    3. Watch, jewelery or jewelery component, according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alloy of said part comprises by weight between 16‰ and 20‰ of silver.
    [4]
    4. Watchmaking, jewelry or jewelry component, according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said alloy part forms the whole of the watchmaking component or at least 50% by weight, or even at least 75% by weight, of the watch component.
    [5]
    5. Watch, jewelery or jewelery component, according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said alloy part has a thickness greater than or equal to 0.1 mm or in that said alloy part forms a coating of the watchmaking, jewelery or jewelery component.
    [6]
    6. Watch component, jewelry or jewelry, according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alloy of said part does not include nickel and / or cobalt and / or iron.
    [7]
    7. Watchmaking, jewelery or jewelery component, according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the alloy of the said part is single-phase, particularly according to a structure of the Au3Cu type, and that the phase transitions occurring at high temperature are not maintained during cooling.
    [8]
    8. Timepiece component according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said alloy part is brazed and/or crimped and/or assembled by deformation.
    [9]
    9. Watch component according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a watch clothing component.
    [10]
    10. Timepiece component according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it is a component of the movement of a timepiece, in particular an oscillating weight.
    [11]
    11. Timepiece, jewelry or jewelry piece, in particular watch, characterized in that it comprises a watchmaking, jewelry or jewelry component, according to one of the preceding claims.
    [12]
    12. Process for manufacturing a watch, jewelery or jewelery component, according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that it comprises a step of assembling said alloy part with at least a second part separate by brazing and/or by welding and/or by crimping.
    [13]
    13. A method of manufacturing a watch, jewelry or jewelry component, according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises a step of brazing said alloy part with at least a second separate part, then a step consisting crimping said brazed portion.
    [14]
    14. Process for manufacturing a watch, jewelery or jewelery component, according to claim 12 or 13, characterized in that it comprises a step of heat treatment at more than 800° C. of at least said alloy part with a reduction in the elongation at break of less than 30% relative to the annealed state and/or without modification of the density of said alloy.
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    公开号 | 申请日 | 公开日 | 申请人 | 专利标题
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    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    CH6852020|2020-06-09|
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